Apart from the exact time, what people want to know most when they look at their watches is the current date. So the date display ranks just behind the hour, minute, and seconds indications even though it is a comparatively recent development in the long history of horology. The first wristwatch with an analogue date was introduced in the early 20th century. Grossmann‘s watchmakers are taking their inspiration from this classic display type but have perceptibly evolved it: their jumping date is remarkably easy to use.
The DATE emphasises the date indication with a complete scale and the highly functional design of the date marker. The calibre 100.3 in the DATE is based on the calibre 100.1, preserving many essential components. But to integrate the jumping date mechanism on the dial side of the movement, several key parts had to be redesigned. The additional setting crown at the 10 o‘clock position reveals the complication at first sight.
With the new expressive DATE Turquoise variant, the independent manufactory Moritz Grossmann presents its successful date model in a new, fresh and yet sophisticated look.
The most eye-catching feature of this watch is its beautiful guilloché dial in turquoise. The special edition, which is limited to a run of 18 pieces, was created in collaboration with exquisite dial manufactory Comblémine by Kari Voutilainen in Switzerland’s Val-de-Travers. The brilliantly iridescent guilloché on the main dial and subsidiary seconds draw the eye and will lend any outfit a special touch – exciting, artistic and very, very cool.
The date setting crown
The DATE stands out with the sleek lines of a perfectly reduced case shape, which is a characteristic element of the model family. It is available in rose and white gold. The pusher beneath the crown of the Grossmann manual winder and the separate date setting crown on the opposite side at 10 o‘clock are visible manifestations of this model.
The design objective of the Grossmann date was clarity of style paired with simple, problem-free operation. This convenience immediately comes to the fore when the date needs to be corrected, for instance at the end of a month. The date can be changed in either direction at any time while the movement continues to run. The date crown is pulled out and turned in the desired direction until the marker lines up with the current date. When the crown is pushed home, a spring causes the date ring with the marker to precisely engage in the right position.
The date display
On the solid-silver dial, the minute scale was moved slightly inward to make space for the date scale. Its crisp Arabic date numerals are blue and thus contrast well against the time scale. Instead of a conventional date hand from the centre, the date marker moves along a peripheral ring and therefore does not compete with the minute hand. Its bracket shape clearly frames the current date. This type of indication, with a complete scale from 1 to 31, evokes an impressive consciousness of how steadily a month elapses.
The jumping date display of the calibre 100.3 relies on a complex system composed of a date ratchet wheel with a switching finger and switching finger spring as well as a release lever, a switching star and a date ring with the marker.
The hands
As a typical hallmark of this model family, the face of the DATE is graced with lancet-shaped hands. They are manually crafted and finished for all of the manufacture‘s models. The seconds, minute, and hour hands are annealed to a brown hue for the rose gold cases. For the whitegold version, all hands are made of polished stainless steel.
The date marker was newly developed as a substitute for a sweep hand. It sits on the outside of the date ring suspended beneath the dial and advances day by day along the scale of 1 to 31 days in the clockwise direction, completing a full revolution every 31 days.
The date marker is also lavishly handmade and annealed to a brown-violet hue as a contrast to the blue date numerals. With its bracket shape, it clearly frames the current date numeral, assuring fast and crisp legibility.
The guilloché dial
The guilloché pattern on the dial and solid silver subsidiary seconds are furnished with a special coating. Depending on the angle the light falls, it creates a dynamic interplay of subtle turquoise shades that are reminiscent of rays of sun on a shimmering body of water.
Guilloché is an ancient craft that only a few experts today are still able to master. It has its origins in artistic wood turning and was taught mainly in high aristocratic circles in the 16th-18th centuries.
Tech Specs
Movement
Manufacture calibre 100.3, manually wound, adjusted in five positions
Special features
Grossmann balance / handsetting override and start of movement with lateral pusher / precisely jumping date display with a peripheral marker / bidirectional date adjustment with a separate crown at 10 o‘clock / space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash / adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock / pillar movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver / balance cock and escapewheel cock hand-engraved / broad horizontal Glashütte ribbing / 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel / raised gold chatons with pan-head screws / separately removable clutch winding mechanism / stop seconds for handsetting
Functions
Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, date display, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
No. of parts
259
No. of jewels
26 jewels, 3 of which in screwed gold chatons
Escapement
Lever escapement
Oscillator
Shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gerstenberger geometry
Balance
Diameter 14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve
42 hours when fully wound
Case dimensions
Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.85 mm
Movement dimensions
Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 7.56 mm
Case
Three-part, precious metal or stainless steel
Dial
Solid silver, hour markers in solid gold or guilloché
Hands
Hand-crafted, steel
Crystal / display back
Sapphire crystal, antireflection-coated on one side
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator strap with pin buckle in precious metal or stainless steel