Two faces of one watch: modern color and traditional watchmaking art

Moritz Grossmann adds a new color to its collection with a limited edition: the POWER RESERVE Salmon from the BENU Heritage line has a salmon-colored dial that shows off the art of the manufacture in ...

Moritz Grossmann adds a new color to its collection with a limited edition: the POWER RESERVE Salmon from the BENU Heritage line has a salmon-colored dial that shows off the art of the manufacture in a new way. The sleek stainless steel case adds to the sporty yet distinctively elegant character of the watch.

Ten years ago, the Moritz Grossmann Glashütte I/SA watch brand added a linear power reserve indicator to the Benu model line. The limited edition BENU POWER RESERVE Salmon now reinterprets this model.

The novelty captivates with its two faces: while the stainless steel case and the sleek dial, which for the first time comes in the color salmon, have an almost sporty expression, the back of the watch with the finely finished 100.2 movement reveals the traditional watchmaking art of the manufacture.

Moritz Grossmann POWER RESERVE Salmon

The Manufacture’s expertise

The combination of haute horlogerie and fine aesthetics is based on the versatile skills of Moritz Grossmann. In the manufactory, which continues the legacy of one of the most eminent watchmakers from Glashütte’s history in a contemporary way, not only elaborately decorated movements are created, but also parts of the decor. For example, the delicately tapered hands in the rhombus shape typical of BENU are made by hand and tempered in blue.

Fresh color

In the new BENU POWER RESERVE Salmon limited edition of 50 pieces, the dial captivates with its warm radiance. It is in the color salmon – a harmonious blend of pink and orange, which has a modern and delicate freshness. The light shade is often said to have a relaxing and positive effect.

At Moritz Grossmann, it unfolds on a dial and is combined with printed Arabic numerals in the color blue, designed in a clear typography. A discreet frame is provided by the dark gray minute track.

The linear power reserve indicator in the upper half of the dial is formed as a bar-shaped display element and refers to the movement’s power reserve in white and blue. This is made possible by a differential gear. When the movement is fully wound, the display appears completely white; when the power reserve decreases, the colored, blue portion of the bar increasingly appears.

Perfect mechanics with innovative extras

The sporty and elegant appearance of the watch is contrasted by a traditional mechanical hand-wound movement: the calibre movement 100.2, whose fine finishing is revealed through the glass back. The calibre 100.2 is an extension of the calibre 100.1 and is constructed as a classic pillar movement with a 2/3 plate. This bears the characteristic Glashütte stripe finish and reveals the shock-resistant Grossmann balance, which is held by the hand-engraved balance cock. Also typical of Moritz Grossmann’s modern calibres are white sapphires as jewels, set in gold chatons and held by brown-violet screws.

The movement features a sophisticated hand setting mechanism, which is regulated by an additional pusher below the crown. This construction prevents foreign particles from entering the case when pulling the crown to adjust the time. It also avoids unintentional adjustment of the hands by pushing the crown back.

This is made possible by a mechanism invented by Moritz Grossmann, which changes the function of the crown by a short pull to set the hands and at the same time stops the movement. After setting the hands, the crown does not have to be pushed back. Indeed, the movement is restarted via the pusher below the crown and the crown is thus reset to the winding function.

Limited edition of 50 pieces in stainless steel

The new BENU POWER RESERVE Salmon is limited to 50 pieces and has a slim, three-piece stainless steel case with a filigree bezel. The case is worn with a hand-stitched navy blue alligator leather strap.

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