TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue

For Moritz Grossmann’s 200th birthday

TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue: the new special anniversary edition combines traditional craftsmanship with a modern colour on the dial

Moritz Grossmann’s 200th birthday is a fitting occasion for the manufactory in Glashütte to create a series of exceptional watches. The series of special editions continues with the TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue. The dial of this watch, limited to 12 pieces, has been finished using the traditional art of
silver-plating by friction and captivates with a flattering shade of blue that lends the classic design a modern touch.

The combination of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary mindset is very much in keeping with Moritz Grossmann’s own values. The founder and namesake of the manufactory, who was born exactly 200 years ago, was a genius watchmaker as well as an ambitious scientist, a profound author, initiator of the German Watchmaking School in Glashütte, and an impressive personality. Moreover, Moritz Grossmann was forward-thinking in terms of the technical possibilities of his time and always interested in progress and innovation.

The Moritz Grossmann manufactory continues this approach in Glashütte today and, in its special anniversary editions, showcases the exceptional skill cultivated in its own workshops. In the new TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue, it is the art of dial finishing that is highlighted in the most exquisite way.

The dial: blue – set in the best light

The dial of the limited-edition TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue has been finished using the silver-plating by friction technique, also known as silver-plating by grit. This process gives the surface a velvety, matt structure with a fascinating optical depth. Silver-plating by friction is a traditional 19th century technique that has been revived in the Moritz Grossmann workshops.

The process is carried out by hand in numerous steps: various powders and liquids – silver powder, salt, tartar and water – are rubbed on and worked in using a small brush. The small brush is repeatedly dipped alternately into the various base materials and moved across the dial. This continues until the surface has taken on a perfect, fine grain and a beautiful silver hue. Each individual step must be executed with the utmost sensitivity. It also requires a great deal of experience to ensure that neither too much nor too little is applied. This is why only a few experts have mastered this traditional technique.

The surface is perfected by a gentle final polish and, in the case of the TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue, also with colour – a blue tinged with green that, thanks to the structure of the silver-plating, appears different from every angle. The interplay of light and shadow, gloss and matt creates a unique effect that adds to the distinctive charm of the TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue.

The face of the watch

Contrasting typography serves to highlight the surface of the dial: the engraved Roman numerals are lacquered in blue, while the historic ‘M. Grossmann’ logo from 1875, the minute scale, the seconds scale and the ‘Made in Germany’ inscription are in black. The lacquers were applied before the silver-plating by friction and fired in the kiln.
To ensure the colours are not damaged during further processing, they are coated with a protective lacquer.

The fine typography harmonises with the hands annealed in blue – these, too, are a speciality of the manufactory. Because the hands are crafted in numerous steps
in-house. They are given gently rounded lines and an ultra-fine tip by hand, and finally the blue colour through the traditional annealing process.

The case: a format to suit every wrist

The hand-wound calibre 102.1: a mechanism of perfect aesthetics

The proven calibre 102.1, which is just 3.45 millimetres high with a diameter of 26 millimetres, works its magic inside the TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue, lending elegance to the case.
The movement’s sophisticated architecture includes all the typical special features of a Grossmann calibre: the hand-wound movement is designed as a classic pillar movement with a three-fifths plate. Other characteristic features include a stepped balance cock with Grossmann micrometer screw and raised chatons.

The TEFNUT line

The TEFNUT line is part of the Classic collection of Moritz Grossmann. It comprises different variants of the TEFNUT, including a further special model that marks the 200th birthday of Moritz Grossmann, the TEFNUT Silver-Plated by Friction.

 Moritz Grossmann:

Moritz Grossmann, born in Dresden in 1826, was deemed a visionary among Germany’s great horologists. In 1854, his friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange persuaded the young, highly talented watchmaker to establish his own mechanical workshop in Glashütte. Apart from building a respected watchmaking business, Grossmann was committed to political and social causes. He established the German School of Watchmaking in 1878. Moritz Grossmann passed away unexpectedly in 1885, after which his manufacture was liquidated.

The spirit of Moritz Grossmann’s horological traditions sprang back to life in 2008 when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter discovered the venerable Glashütte brand and had it re-registered. She developed concepts and was inspired by the vision of reviving Grossmann’s legacy more than 120 years later with a particularly exquisite wristwatch. And she convinced private watch enthusiasts to support her in making this dream come true. On 11 November 2008, she founded Grossmann Uhren GmbH in Glashütte.

At Grossmann, gifted watchmakers are preserving traditions without copying historic timepieces. With innovation, superb craftsmanship, a combination of traditional and contemporary manufacturing methods as well as precious materials, they are celebrating ‘Schönstes deutsches Handwerk’ with their timepieces.