The year 2026 is a special one for the Moritz Grossmann manufactory in Glashütte, as its founder and namesake was born on 27 March 1826 – exactly 200 years ago.
As the second special edition for Moritz Grossmann’s 200th birthday, two limited edition TREMBLAGE models are being released: one with a rose gold case and the other with a platinum case.
Both models feature a 750/000 rose gold dial made out of a solid gold disc, which the scales, numerals and typography are then cut from.
For Moritz Grossmann’s 200th birthday, a historical engraving technique is returning to the spotlight. It sees the dials of the TREMBLAGE anniversary models – for the first time crafted from 750/000 solid rose gold – being designed using the engraving technique of the same name.
A contemporary twist reinterpreting “Schönstes deutsches Handwerk”
TREMBLAGE GOLD
Hand-engraved model TREMBLAGE for the 13th anniversary of the manufactory
The Dial
Material and surface form a fascinating liaison. German silver is an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc, among others, which is frequently used in historical watches and movements. Thanks to the surface treatment, this alloy produces a silver-like hue with an aesthetic vintage look. The three-dimensional appearance of the dial underscores the effect: The numerals of the hours and circular small seconds rise above the surface, as does the historic “M. Grossmann” logo from 1875, which goes back to Moritz Grossmann, the famous watchmaking pioneer who gave his name to the Glasshütte manufactory.
These are not mounted appliqués. On the contrary, the base of the dial has been cut out and removed so that the logo, numerals and seconds circle remain. A task that also requires meticulous care to create clean edges. The top of the numerals, logo and seconds circle were also given a flat polish finish.
Only then did the dial undergo the painstaking tremblage process in Glashütte, a method that takes numerous hours. A single dial can take an engraver several days to complete. The whole is complemented by the meticulous craftsmanship of the finishers.
The result is exquisite – a uniquely crafted work of art with an even, fine grain that softens the effect of incident light and lends a wonderfully matt appearance to the tremblage surface. The lavishly flat polished raised elements create a lustrous contrast.
The winding crown and the pusher
The gently curved form and the tapered chamfer of the strap lugs enhances the eloquent silhouette of the case.
Aesthetic and functional — the circumferential groove makes it easy to pull out the crown. The pusher for the new handsetting train is set directly below the winding crown.
The butterfly clasp
Centred on the inside of the wrist when worn, the optional available butterfly clasp makes it easy to put on and take off the watch.
Tech Specs
Movement
Manufacture calibre 100.1, manually wound, adjusted in five positions
Special features
Dial tremblage, Grossmann balance; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; space-saving modified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw on cantilevered balance cock; movement with 2/3 plate and pillars made of untreated German silver;
2/3 plate, balance cock and escape-wheel cock hand-engraved; grained train bridge; 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; separately removable clutch winding mechanism; stop seconds for hand setting
Functions
Hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, Grossmann winder with pusher
No. of parts
198
No. of jewels
20 jewels, 3 of which in screwed gold chatons
Escapement
Lever escapement
Oscillator
Shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gerstenberger geometry
Balance
Diameter 14.2 mm, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve
42 hours when fully wound
Operating elements
Crown in 750/000 gold/stainless steel to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in 750/000
Case dimensions
Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 11.35 mm
Movement dimensions
Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 5.0 mm
Case
Platinum & Rose gold
Dial
750/000 rose gold, with tremblage & 750/000 rose gold, with tremblage, black rhodium-plated
Hands
Manually crafted, steel polished & Manually crafted, rose gold, polished
Crystal / display back
Sapphire crystal, antireflection-coated on one side
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in precious metal/stainless steel