For Moritz Grossmann, the goal behind this new PERPETUAL CALENDAR was to create a timepiece that outlasts the changing eras and preserves its being in perpetuity. Its mechanism keeps the date display correct permanently, even when the months differ in length or the year is a leap year. This complication is considered one of the greatest challenges in watchmaking and combines precise technology with master craftsmanship.
For the 17th anniversary of its rebirth, the Glashütte-based manufactory is unveiling an impressive, newly engineered design. Ever since Christine Hutter brought new life to the tradition-filled Moritz Grossmann name in 2008, the brand has stood for a combination of classic mechanisms, contemporary style and utmost craftsmanship.
Moritz Grossmann celebrates the 17th anniversary with a grand complication
PERPETUAL CALENDER
Tech Specs
Movement
Manufacture calibre 101.13. manual winding, regulated in five positions
Special features
Balance staff with integrated safety roller, location of the impulse pin in the balance (Glashütte style); index adjuster with fine screw; 2/3 plate inspired by historical M. Grossmann pocket watches; frame parts in untreated German silver; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; stop-second function at safety roller for pulling the crown; hand setting override and start of movement with lateral pusher; gear wheel stopwork with two-teeth backlash
Functions
Hours and minutes, small seconds with stop-second function, date, day of week, month, moon phase, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
No. of parts
401 (movement 190/calendar gears 211)
No. of jewels
37 jewels, including 4 gold chatons, 3 of which are screwed
Escapement
Lever escapement
Oscillator
Shock-absorbed Grossmann balance with 4 inertia screws and 2 poising screws, suspended Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 terminal curve, Gustav Gerstenberger geometry
Balance
Diameter: 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve
42 hours when fully wound
Operating elements
Crown in rose gold/platinum to wind the watch and set the time; pusher in rose gold/platinum to start the watch; correctors in rose gold/platinum to set the date, day of week, month and moon phase; sum corrector in rose gold/platinum to correct the date
Case dimensions
Diameter: 41.0 mm, height: 13.9 mm
Movement dimensions
Diameter: 36.4 mm, height: 8.3 mm
Case
Three-part, rose gold/platinum
Dial
Argenté, argenté/anthracite, inner ring finished with a radiant cut, subsidiary dials decorated with Azurage, indices in the form of appliqués, goldstone moon phase display, mother-of-pearl moon
Hands
Manually crafted rose gold, polished; manually crafted steel annealed to a blue hue
Crystal/display back
Hand-stitched alligator leather with solid prong buckle in rose gold/platinum
Strap
handgenähtes Alligatorband mit massiver Dornschließe aus Roségold/ Platin