One of the greatest challenges of all is to make the complex seem simple. And this is an art that Moritz Grossmann has truly mastered: the one-off Dufour TEFNUT silver-plated by friction has such an unassuming appearance that at first glance it looks just like a classic dress watch. It is only when you take a closer look that you see the exquisite details and masterful skill of the craftspeople involved in bringing this unique piece to fruition. The new version of Dufour TEFNUT silver-plated by friction has been designed and made as a one-off piece in aid of the Philippe & Elisabeth Dufour Foundation.
The unique piece will be auctioned on 11 May 2025 as part of the Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, lot 127.
Philippe Dufour is an exceptional watchmaker who has earned global renown for his work. Together with his wife Elisabeth, the Swiss set up a foundation aimed at making the world a better place.
The foundation supports humanitarian, environmental, educational and medical projects across Switzerland and internationally.
A venture that Moritz Grossmann is passionate about, given it completely aligns with the manufactory’s own values. Furthermore, one of the focal points of the foundation’s work is the promotion of craftsmanship, an endeavour that fits in perfectly with the Glashütte’s manufactory’s ethos of practising traditional crafts. More than enough reason for the German company to produce a special edition model in aid of the Philippe & Elisabeth Dufour Foundation. This one-off piece, the Dufour TEFNUT silver-plated by friction, will be sold by auction and all the proceeds donated to projects supported by the Foundation.
A one-off piece with high-quality details
With its high-quality details, the Dufour TEFNUT silver-plated by friction embodies the classic virtues espoused by the Moritz Grossmann manufactory: a sleek design of understated elegance, the use of high-quality materials and intricate craftsmanship evident in everything from the dial to the movement.
This piece is named after the technique used to hand-finish the dial in the Moritz Grossmann workshops: silver-plating by friction, also called grain-plating.
It is a 19th century technique handed down through the generations that results in a velvety, matt structure. To achieve this effect, a paste comprising silver powder, salt, cream of tartar and water is rubbed on using a small brush and worked in. The aim is to achieve a fine grain that is then carefully finished with a polish at the end.
Every single one of these steps must be executed with a great deal of sensitivity and a wealth of experience is also required. This is why only a few experts have mastered this traditional technique. However, the end result justifies the time it takes: the interplay of light and shadow, gloss and matt creates a unique effect that adds to the distinctive charm of the TEFNUT silver-plated by friction.
And this isn’t the only distinctive feature of this one-of-a-kind piece: the numerals, writing and scales are engraved on the dial and lacquered in blue, creating an appealing contrast. This marks the first time the colour blue has been used on the TEFNUT. The Moritz Grossmann logo on the dial is set in a historic font that hints at the manufactory’s long tradition. The fine hands that circle the dial are made by hand and annealed in blue.
The hand-wound calibre 102.1: a mechanism of perfect aesthetics
The proven calibre 102.1, which is just four millimetres high with a diameter of 26 millimetres, works its magic inside the TEFNUT silver-plated by hand, lending elegance to the flat stainless steel case. The movement also reflects the manufactory’s many virtues: the hand-wound movement comprises a classic pillar movement formed of a main plate and 3/5 plate.
Typical elements include a cantilevered balance cock with Grossmann poising screw, raised chatons and a separate removable winding block. A highlight of this model is the screws, which are annealed in blue and match the colour of the numerals perfectly.
Both the construction and sophisticated finish are typical of the Glashütte watch manufactory: the delicate, hand-engraved pattern on the balance cock is just as exquisite as the ribbing on the plate. The sophisticated mechanism is signed “Moritz Grossmann Glashütte i/SA” in italics.
The one-off piece is worn on a strap made from blue kudu leather.
The Philippe & Elisabeth Dufour Foundation:
The Foundation was set up by the married couple Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour with the aim of supporting humanitarian, environmental, educational and medical projects. “We want to do our part for the common good” is their motivation. Currently, the Foundation is supporting an educational project for adults in Peru, training initiatives for children, young people and women in Madagascar and various projects in Switzerland. An additional aspect of the Foundation’s work is promoting craftsmanship, with the aim of cultivating a love of watchmaking and broadening access for young talent and to all types of arts and crafts.
Moritz Grossmann Uhren:
Moritz Grossmann, born in Dresden in 1826, was deemed a visionary among Germany’s great horologists. In 1854, his friend Ferdinand Adolph Lange persuaded the young, highly talented watchmaker to establish his own mechanical workshop in Glashütte. Apart from building a respected watchmaking business, Grossmann was committed to political and social causes. He established the German School of Watchmaking in 1878. Moritz Grossmann passed away unexpectedly in 1885, after which his manufacture was liquidated.
The spirit of Moritz Grossmann’s horological traditions sprang back to life in 2008 when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter discovered the venerable Glashütte brand and had it re-registered. She developed concepts and was inspired by the vision of reviving Grossmann’s legacy more than 120 years later with a particularly exquisite wristwatch. And she convinced private watch enthusiasts to support her in making this dream come true. On 11 November 2008, she founded Grossmann Uhren GmbH in Glashütte.
At Grossmann, gifted watchmakers are preserving traditions without copying historic timepieces. With innovation, superb craftsmanship, a combination of traditional and contemporary manufacturing methods as well as precious materials, they are celebrating ‘Schönstes deutsches Handwerk’ with their timepieces.
